Outline of in-class presentation on the history of pubic hair removal
Hey, I’ve never done an outline this detailed. Which should be obvious if you’ve read any of my posts. It was staggeringly hard for me, at least the first time, though I could see how over time it would be tremendously useful. Especially once it felt more natural. That said, despite quite a lot of preparation by the end of my actual talk I’d free-lanced a much stronger conclusion that more effectively tied the last section on class to the almost sudden turnaround of hairlessnes from a sign of sexual restraint to a sign of sexual expressiveness. Before I’d deliver the talk again I’d revise the outline to reflect the differences (oh yeah, and really clean up the bibliography!) but for now it really did serve it’s purpose.
Specific Purpose
After listening to my
speech my audience will introduce listeners to the history of pubic hair
grooming as it relates to questions of hygiene, tradition, and modern
body-image issues.
Thesis
“Brazilian" waxing and
other forms of pubic hair grooming have been practiced all through history and
all around the world for all sorts of reasons. I will discuss some of those
reasons, and their implications, as they relate to questions of hygiene, social
conventions, and body-image issues.
Why do I care?
I first became interested
when I read an article for women about shaving their genitals and I was
startled to see that except for location the steps, and the obstacles, were
similar to those for shaving my face! A little bit of Googling turned revealed
that body-hair grooming traditions were way more complex than I imagined.
Why You Should Care
The impact of body hair
grooming in general, and pubic hair grooming in particular have affected
millions of women and, increasingly, men. Looking at the history of pubic hair
grooming might help put the recent fashion trends into a broader context and, perhaps,
give us more perspective when we choose to respond.
Introduction
- On Sept. 3, 1999, I read an
article in Salon.com about a new fashion craze called Brazilian waxing.
- A. I’d heard of people
occasionally trimming or removing their pubic hair for health reasons or if
they were porn performers but Salon reported it as a new fashion.
- B. Only three years later a
relative mentioned that more than 50% of her Women’s Clinic patients in rural,
central Maine had begun practicing some form of partial or complete pubic hair
removal.
- Since I grew up during an era
when one of the biggest Broadway musicals, Hair, was about never cutting any
of your hair, I’ve followed the radical reversal in fashion with interest,
accumulating quite a lot of information on the topic.
- I thought if I shared some of
what I’ve learned about the history and culture of pubic hair removal around
the world it might help put our current fashion into perspective.
- “Brazilian" waxing and other
forms of pubic hair grooming have been practiced all through history and all
around the world for all sorts of reasons. I will discuss some of those
reasons, and their implications, as they relate to questions of hygiene, social
conventions, and body-image issues.
Transition:
Let’s take a look first at body hair removal through the centuries
Body
- Although shaving or waxing
pubic hair hit America in the late 1990s it’s been around for years, but if
it’s been around for years why haven’t we heard more about it?
- Nobody really talked much
publically about sex until
- Masters & Johnson released
their study in the late 1960
- David Reubin wrote “Everything
You Always Wanted to Know About Sex" in the early 1970s
- Alex Comfort’s “The Joy of Sex" became a best-seller in the early 70’s.
- Almost none of the books I
scanned in the library on sex, feminism, fashion, or porn from 1975 to 1985
refer to pubic shaving or waxing.
- Those that do make only
oblique references.
- “Joy of Sex" mentions it as a
surprise variation.
- A book about “swingers" in the
1970s mentioned that some women with died hair shaved their pubic hair to hide
that they weren’t “natural" blondes.
- Towards the end of the 1970s
some books and articles began to wonder why porn stars had started to shave
their pubic hair.
Transition: So if there is
little historical evidence of shaving for sexual or fashion reasons what
information is in the historical record?
- Ancient History
- Historians say women in the
middle east made a depilatory called rhumsa turcorum three to four thousand
years ago.
- Egyptians and Greeks used
bronze or obsidian razors, pumice stones, threading, and sugaring to make
themselves look more “refined" and less “barbaric."
- The prophet Mohamed specified
that observant Moslem men and women should remove all body hair below the neck
at least once every 40 days.
- We know that merkins were used
by both prostitutes and nobility to disguise pubic hair loss due to parasite
management and the effects of syphilis remedies.
- American pioneers and settlers
shaved their body hair to control lice and other body parasites.
- John Wayne’s funny swagger may
have imitated pioneers with razor burn or stubble!
- Ma and Pa Wilder probably
shaved when living in their Little House on the Prairie and their House At Plum
Creek, because we know many of their contemporaries did.
- French authorities refused to
extradite a pornographer back to England for publishing photos of models with
pubic hair (shaved models were considered non-obscene.)
- Anecdote: During the
toxic-shock syndrome scare some women friends trimmed their pubic hair to reduce
sticking and pulling from menstrual pads.
Transition: Can we make
any guesses about where the transition from assumptions about pubic hair as a
Victorian signifier of greater sexuality might have begun to change?
- Body hair became an early 20th
Century signifier for class, race, sexual “excess," and gender.
- In 1914, after the first
sleeveless and leg-baring gowns were introduced, ads promoting armpit and leg
hair removal began appearing, but only in very high-end women’s magazines like Harper’s Bazaar.
- Largely white Anglo-Saxon
protestant, upper class feminists criticized recent immigrants from
Mediterranean regions for their immodest attire, use makeup, flamboyance, and “coarse" complexions.
- Ads for shaving products in
middle-class magazines didn’t appear 20 years after appearing in Harper’s Bazaar.
- Marketers trying to introduce
women’s shaving products into Latin American markets noticed that women of European
descent were reluctant to remove leg and armpit hair for fear of looking more
like lower-status Native American women who they perceived to be more naturally
hairless.
- The “Two Sphere" gender model
dictated opposing qualities for men and women.
- If men were seen as strong,
women must be seen as weak.
- If women were seen as
nurturing, men must be seen as remote.
- If men were seen as hairy,
mature sexual animals, women must be seen as hairless, sexless “pre-pubescent" angels.
- Not until the end of the 20th
Century did removal of pubic hair begin to signify higher rather than lower
sexualization.
Conclusion
Pubic hair removal was
present and common long before Americans became aware of it through sources
such as Salon.com, Cosmopolitan magazine, and Sex and the City. In fact it
was, and in much of the rest of the world still is, practiced for a variety of
reasons including religion, hygiene, tradition, and status. Understanding this
we may be able to assess contemporary media, marketing, and peer pressure to
groom or remove pubic hair.
Bibliography:
- Faster Pussycat, Wax, Wax!
By Christina Valhouli, Salon.com, Sept. 3, 1999
http://dir.salon.com/story/health/feature/1999/09/03/bikini/index.html
- Merkin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merkin
- Merkin; lice abatement;
href=“http://www.guardian.co.uk/theguardian/2003/jun/26/features11.g2”>http://www.guardian.co.uk/theguardian/2003/jun/26/features11.g2
- The Oxford Companion to the Body: Merkin
Colin Blakemore and Sheila
Jennett, editors 2001
ISBN 0-19-852403-X (Amazon: href=“http://www.amazon.com/Oxford-Companion-Body-Colin-Blakemore/dp/019852403X”>http://www.amazon.com/Oxford-Companion-Body-Colin-Blakemore/dp/019852403X )
- The Oxford Companion To The Body traces the merkin
back to 1450, a time when the bidet was a distant prospect and personal hygiene
fell well short of the mark. Pubic lice were common – so some women, fed up
with the constant itching, just shaved the lot off and then covered their
modesty with a merkin.
- The Other Victorians: A Study of Sexuality and Pornography in Mid-Nineteenth-Century England
Steven Marcus, W W Norton & Co
Inc, April 1985
href=“http://www.amazon.com/Other-Victorians-Sexuality-Pornography-Mid-Nineteenth-Century/dp/0393302369/”>http://www.amazon.com/Other-Victorians-Sexuality-Pornography-Mid-Nineteenth-Century/dp/0393302369/
- Fresh Lipstick: Redressing Fashion and Feminism
Linda M. Scott; Palgrave Macmillan
(February 16, 2006)
href=“http://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Lipstick-Redressing-Fashion-Feminism/dp/140397134X/”>http://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Lipstick-Redressing-Fashion-Feminism/dp/140397134X/
- Hair or Bare?: The History of American Women and Hair Removal,
1914-1934
Kirsten Hansen; Senior Thesis in
American Studies, Barnard College, Columbia University, Thesis Advisor:
Professor Rosenberg, 18 April 2007
href=“http://www.barnard.edu/history/sample%20thesis/Kirsten%20Hansen%20thesis%20pdf.pdf”>http://www.barnard.edu/history/sample%20thesis/Kirsten%20Hansen%20thesis%20pdf.pdf
My comparison of the Ladies’ Home Journal
to Harper’s Bazaar reveals that hair removal was even more of a class-related
phenomenon than Hope suggests, based on her analysis of the less-widely read
Delineator. The hair removal campaign which debuted in Harper’s Bazaar in 1914
did not appear in the Ladies’ Home Journal until 1934. In sum, the introduction
of hair removal to women was introduced through and influenced by many
different industries; furthermore, it trickled down the class hierarchy at a
slower rate than Hope suggests. Finally, Hope only briefly speculates about
the link between hair removal and gender, and does not begin to consider the
implications of hair removal as part of the greater social phenomenon of the
era, the redefinition of the feminine ideal.
- Women’s Health Magazine: Dec. 2006:
href=“http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty-and-style/facts-about-beauty”>http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty-and-style/facts-about-beauty
Number of women who’ve considered
shaving their head: 1 in 5
Age she began shaving: 12
Of women who shave, percentage who do it every day:
24"
Percentage of women who say men should shave
facial hair daily: 37
Percentage of women who think a 5 o’clock shadow
is hot: 14
Percentage of women who wax: 17
Top three areas waxed:
1. bikini line
2. eyebrows
3. lip
Percentage of women who’ve gone Brazilian:3
Percentage of women who say they’d wax their guy’s
back: 31
- Women’s Health Magazine: July/August, 2006
href=“http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty-and-style/shaving-and-waxing-tips?page=2”>http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty-and-style/shaving-and-waxing-tips?page=2
- Schedule appointments for the 2 weeks after your
period. A new study found you’re less susceptible to pain then.
- Women’s Health, Oct 2007
http://www.womenshealthmag.com/health/best-bath-products
Red bumps on your bikini line are
skinspeak for WTF?! Avoid irritating your follicles by soaking in warm water
for 5 minutes before shaving, says Gregory G. Papadeas, D.O., a Denver-based
dermatologist. Water loosens hair follicles to help stubble slip out nice and
easy.
- Body hair removal: the ‘mundane’ production of normative femininity;
Sex Roles: A Journal of Research,
March, 2005 by Merran Toerien, Sue Wilkinson, Precilla Y.L. Choi Foo
href=“http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2294/is_5-6_52/ai_n15344791/pg_1”>http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2294/is_5-6_52/ai_n15344791/pg_1
Women’s body hair (5) removal is strongly
normative across numerous cultural contexts today. Survey research indicates
that the practice is currently prevalent in North America (Basow, 1991) and
Australia (Tiggemann & Kenyon, 1998). However, accounts of women’s hair
removal from such diverse regions as Ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome; the
Tobriand Islands; Uganda; South America; and Turkey (Cooper, 1971) show it to
be neither a modern nor a purely Western invention. Taken together, the long
history and the current, documented prevalence of women’s body depilation
suggest it to be of social significance. Moreover, there is strong evidence of
a widespread symbolic association between body hair—or its absence—and
ideal gender: to have a hairy body is a sign of masculinity; to have a hairless
one, a sign of femininity (6) (Basow, 1991; Basow & Braman, 1998; Cooper,
1971; Ferrante, 1988; Firth, 1973; Greer, 1970; Hope, 1982; Simpson, 1986;
Synnott, 1993; Tiggemann & Kenyon, 1998; Toerien & Wilkinson, 2003,
2004). Indeed, the depiction of the female body as depilated, with “smooth
unwrinkled … skin" (Tiggemann & Kenyon, 1998, p. 873), is part of the
current, dominant, mass media image of ideal femininity (Whelehan, 2000).
- Male body depilation: prevalence and associated features of body hair
removal; Sex Roles: A Journal of
Research, May, 2005 by Michael Boroughs, Guy Cafri, J. Kevin Thompson
href=“http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2294/is_9-10_52/ai_n15341181/pg_1”>http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m2294/is_9-10_52/ai_n15341181/pg_1
During ancient times Egyptian and Greek
cultures placed a premium on the appearance of a hairless male body, and
ancient Egyptian men often shaved their body hair with pumice and razors
(Luciano, 2001). In the modern era however, body depilation (i.e., body hair
reduction or removal below the neck) has typically been culturally sanctioned
only for women (Basow & Braman, 1998; Hope, 1982; Tiggemann & Kenyon,
1998) and is strongly normative within contemporary Western culture (Toerien
& Wilkinson, 2003, 2004). With few exceptions, men have not engaged in body
depilation because the presence of body hair has traditionally been symbolic of
masculinity and therefore associated with men’s attractiveness and virility
(Basow, 1991; Basow & Braman, 1998; Lewis, 1987; Tiggemann & Kenyon,
1998). It appears, however, that the hairless male body ideal has come back
into vogue (Luciano, 2001). According to popular press accounts, this shifting
ideal has influenced many men both to remove and reduce their body hair (Gomes,
2001; Smith, 2000; Stuever, 2000). In fact, Boroughs and Thompson (2002) found
that appearance concerns motivate some men to shave or trim many parts of their
bodies, including most notably: abdomen, chest, groin, and legs. Consequently,
the aim of the current study was to investigate the prevalence and
characteristics of body depilation, as well as its related social and affective
features. This information will provide a greater understanding of male body
depilation and also inform our understanding of the rapidly developing field of
men’s body image.
- The Shaving Historical Timeline
QuickShave Razor Company, Houston,
TX
http://www.quikshave.com/timeline.htm
- Shaving Throughout History
QuickShave Razor Company, Houston,
TX
http://www.quikshave.com/smooth.htm
I’m totally with you, ks – for all the reasons you give.
Figleaf, I’m impressed with the level of detail. It’s downright Teutonic. I’ve always been sloppy about outlines, and I should work on that in hopes of stemming my tendency to write mini-dissertations. Which gets worse when my partner is traveling non-stop and I’m alone at home with a little time on my hands …
I’m glad you mentioned that the talk was meant to be informative, because your thesis statement wasn’t really a thesis (in the usual sense of being a point you develop and support with evidence – you actually do explain your thesis very nicely in comments above). So now you’ll be spared my stern-but-sexy instructor act.
Of course, you’re still welcome to drop in to my office hours. And since you’re not actually my student, the options are unlimited for role playing and tutoring and rehearsing your talk with, um, hands-on demonstrations.
[Agreed on the different definition of “thesis” but at least in this system it’s still very formally defined. The whole shebang, by the way, is based on a highly structured format. For instance everything before “Introduction” is unspoken and used to lay foundations for the actual talk, and to be honest in order to deliver the talk at all I had to go back and do what I’d call a “real” outline — terse keywords and transition points — so I wouldn’t just read the flipping thing off the page. Also, drop-in conferences? Hmmmm…. Yeah, I’d never do that with a current instructor but, also yeah, role playing at a whole ‘nother campus? I could see that! Thanks, Sungold! —fl]
I was going to mention the John Ruskin story, but when I tried to find out more about it, it turned out it may be an urban legend. Great job, Figleaf, you’ve already made me smarter!
But eek, somebody waxes their eyebrows?! Don’t they know that when you pull out a hair, you might harm its roots so badly that it won’t grow back?
[Actually I just forgot about the Ruskin story. And yes, while the story might be an urban legend it might have been useful anyway given that his contemporaries believed it about Victorians in general and Ruskin in particular that it passed into legend in the first place. And yes, lots of people find out too late that repeated eyebrow pulling damages follacles. Although on the other side lots of advocates of body-hair waxing offer diminished hair regrowth as a long-term bonus. Thanks, Larus. —fl]
Shirley Manson of the rock/electronica group “Garbage” did exactly that, and as you say, they didn’t grow back. When she appears in photo shoots now, her eyebrows are drawn on with a make up pencil.
Hey Figleaf, this is why I will never get waxed…http://monkeyinasuit.wordpress.com/2008/03/06/the-agony-and-the-agony/.
Ouch oh fucking ouch. I am not brave enough. My husband sometimes trims my pubes with an electric razor, which is fun. I would shave for him if he asked me to. We all do things to make ourselves attractive to our partners and that’s all good.
[Hi Mag. According to my research less than 3% of the population waxes so as far as that goes you’re in great company. I’ve considered trying it but they say it would rip the skin off my face! Yikes! —fl]
I was aware that in some places and times it was done to avoid lice and similar parasites. But for me, personally, I don’t care what reasons other people do or don’t do it. I shave my pubic and body hair because if I don’t, it itches when I’m wearing clothing. (Growing it out doesn’t help; in fact, it took me years to figure out that shaving was a solution to the problem.) Since it’s illegal to be naked it public, and I really would rather not tolerate that kind of discomfort for long periods, what other option do I have?
[Good point, of course, Nightfall. My talk didn’t go any further because it was just supposed to be informative rather than persuasive (harder than it looks!) If it had been meant to be persuasive I’d have done an inquiry into why our sense is that — whatever came before — the tendency not to groom during the 1960s and 1970s was also a fashion decision, that the period between the 1980s and 1990s had interesting social transformations relating to the “hidden discourse of desire” meme we’ve discussed a lot in class, and then the branching out of great new reasons both for and against for doing whatever the heck pleases us. So totally, more power to you, more power to me, anyone who says there’s a “right way” to do it is trying to dictated their fashion sense to you. —fl]
That looks like it was an interesting talk.
My own personal reasons for keeping mine trimmed very short (shaving irritates my skin and waxing is just painful) are purely sexual. It just feels better to me with less hair in those areas, plus it’s easier access.
[It really does, doesn’t it? I mean, when I’ve had beards and then shaved them off it’s like… this whole new world of sensation on my face, and not just someone else’s face but even sunshine and summer breezes are heavenly on my newly bare skin. And, I might add, on the few occasions I’ve trimmed or shaved my pubic hair it’s been the same way there too. So yeah, once you cross the barrier to discussing desire all sorts of things become permissible to own for ourselves. Thanks, ks. —fl]
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