
Photo by Flickr user appaIoosa. Used under a Creative Commons license.
Courtney Martin of Feministing says
This might seem sort of ridiculous, but this Thursday I’d like to take a moment of gratitude that I get to wear pants. It blows my frickin’ mind that there was a time when women like meâ€â€smart, ambitious, creativeâ€â€were stuck wearing skirts seven days a week. Don’t get me wrong, I love me a princess-sleeve dress with a bell skirt, but I love it because I get to choose it.
...
As I’ve been on the road speaking at colleges, I frequently get a question like, “Can you be a feminist and wear lipstick or high heels?” Hell yeah, and you know why? Because you can CHOOSE to wear those things. Or CHOOSE not to wear those things. Or CHOOSE to wear them on every second Sunday.
So one winter day when I was in 7th grade (roughly age 13, which would have made it roughly 1968 or 1969) the school principal himself came to our homeroom class to remove the “best girl” 7th grader and send her home. Her offense? Wearing a pair of nice, dress wool pants. Instead of a skirt or dress.
The girl, by all metrics such as grades, deportment, courtesy, sociable across multiple interest groups, and presentability a very “good” girl, argued not unreasonably that there had been local-record-breaking cold weather that morning, as there had been all week, and she was just sick and tired of freezing in skirts and dresses while boys got to come to wear warm pants. (And the boys were wearing warm pants. Many of use were wearing insulated pants and those pre-polypro cotton waffle long johns too. It was frickin’ cold!)
The principal explained that rules were rules and (since she was a nice girl) after making her case about the unfairness of the rule she politely left with him escorting her. To be honest I’m not sure if her parents made a fuss but since word spread all over the school and home with most of the kids a number of other parents certainly did. By the end of the week the girl was back and the pants-only rule was no more.
I mention this incident (as I have in the past) because most conversations about what women “should” wear tend to revolve around transgressions of gender conformity and immodesty. But winning the right to wear pants, which happened only just when I was reaching puberty, was one big, huge deal.
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Martin closes her post with
Now if we could only expand the clothing options open to men…
As someone who’d just as soon everyone else have the luxury of the streamlined appearance mandates I get to enjoy as a man (compared to even extraordinarily powerful and influential women) I’ve got mixed feelings about that. On the one hand, yes, it would be cool to be able to sport a variety of clothes without catching the kind of crap male political leaders do every time they put on the traditional attire of their host countries abroad.
On the other hand? On the other hand there’s that whole “beauty trap” business where women don’t just get to dress to attract esthetic assessment, they’re frequently obliged to by themselves and others to an extent beyond which the vast, vast majority of men either notice or care about. (Familiar ground I’m sure but first, sorry, no men really don’t notice and second, there’s a point to this so hold on for a moment.)
But see, there’s a third hand. That being a point made in several histories of the business suit that by de-emphasizing appearance (indeed by reducing attire to a near uniform) the “gray flannel” suit and its bland antecedents not only permitted but (familiar pattern here?) obliged men to distinguish themselves by their accomplishments rather than their appearance. Which ties in to what I’m convinced is the constructed men’s masculine counterpart to the constructed women’s feminine “beauty trap,” the “worthiness trap.” That the worthiness trap afflicts men no less than the beauty trap does women, that men feel obliged to compete to an extent beyond which the vast, vast majority of women neither notice nor care…
... makes me suddenly suspicious of men’s avoidance of fancy or varied attire. Hmmm….
Actually I’d better stop here or I’ll wind up hijacking my own post. But let’s just say I’ll keep de-emphasizing effort-into-appearance as long as women are judged, judge themselves, and judge each other by appearance — by what they look like rather than who they are. But also let me say that yeah, maybe it’s time men lightened up on the visual self-deprication business a little while we also chill out on the “she’ll really be impressed if I work 80 hours a week” thing.
Hmm. Gotta think about this more.
P.S. The photo behind “Continue Reading…” is almost explicit, and post appropriate as well.




Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Thu, 2008-04-10 13:47.
I'm going to be completely superficial and just comment on the picture - you look great in a kilt! More men should wear them. Especially if they have legs as nice as yours.
[Oh thank you, Bunny. I'm glad everyone likes my legs. I'm going to have to get a dressier kilt. :-) --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Thu, 2008-04-10 13:59.
Utilikilts always transcend gender.
But my thoughts on clothing are, I think, in line with yours: let everyone pick whatever they want to wear with no legal or institutional consequences and as few social ones as we can manage.
I wonder sometimes where the line is between fashion/taste and social regulation, though. Because it seems sometimes like dressing outside gender roles isn't forbidden but... gauche. Like wearing stripes with spots. I suppose it's a sign of progress that a man in a pink ruffly shirt or a girl in combat boots are merely committing fashion crimes rather than crimes against nature, but it's still not right.
Actually, come to think of it, the line is quite clear: if it applies to both genders, it's taste, and if it only applies to one and girls are welcome to wear pink ruffly shirts, it's sexism.
[Actually I'm not sure about *anybody* in a pink ruffly shirt, though, so I might not be the one to ask. On the other hand I'm just all about jeans and t-shirts on everybody. (I used to have the cutest little jeans, ancient and obviously handed down many times, with the little diaper-snap inseams. I put them on both my children with white cotton onesie tops when they were maybe one and a half years old and *they* looked great in them. :-) So anyway, that was one of the things that struck me about Courtney Martin's post. Before the late 1960s jeans over diapers wouldn't have been just gauche (as my partner sort of felt) for either boy or girl, but ok on an infant boy *wrong* on a girl! Thanks, Holly. --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Thu, 2008-04-10 14:37.
Figleaf, I'm not convinced that men really don't care about the primping and fussing that women do with their appearance. I think it's nearly universal that men don't want to see the *effort* behind beauty; they prefer it to appear natural. I also think very few (straight) men care about fashion trends, what's in and what's out. On the other hand, a lot of men do dig high heels, sexy skirts, etc.
There's a big span here. I don't know of any studies (though I'm sure they exist) - but when I get the men in my classes to discuss women and the beauty ideal, I hear a wide range of responses. Some truly do want women to "make an effort" or "not let themselves go." Similarly, there's a wide range among women when it comes to men proving their "worthiness." Some really do care about the three cars and a house big enough to garage them all. Others really don't.
I love your schooldays story. I remember wearing skirts was mandatory all through first grade - and maybe into second - in North Dakota! We were allowed to wear pants under our skirts for recess. But you're talking sub-zero (F) temperatures for much of the winter. It must've been 1970 or 1971 before we finally got permission to wear pants, and even then that was hedged with restrictions (no jeans) for a few more years. Then when Title IX integrated our gym classes (that was 1977 for me) the girls - and ONLY the girls - had to wear gym suits, lest we wear the tacky short shorts then in style and excite all the poor boys.
Hmmm. If you want to convince a young girl that feminism is a good thing, all of that was a pretty good education!
[Hi Sungold! I think I always need to be more clear when I talk about this. It's not that men don't care about appearance -- we do! -- any more than women don't care about worthiness -- of course you would! But (sort of like what KS says, below) it's a threshhold thing not an absolute, and (Firestone actually discusses this in Dialectics) so what makes it a trap is that past that threshhold returns start going downhill and, *past the point,* say, where younger women start getting major surgeries or men start working so diligently they effectively disappear for their partners, it actually starts to have *negative* benefits by increasing partner dissatisfaction. Hope that makes more sense. --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Thu, 2008-04-10 17:27.
You know, I've seen guys wearing dresses before - not that often, but aside from in a gay pride parade they usually weren't even trying to look feminine apart from the dress. And it doesn't look strange, at least not anymore. But then again, I get used to anything really easily.
[I see men in kilts around here (there's a big manufacturer in the area and they're popular with the new-urban crowd.) But I also see the occasional man in a sarong, kaftan, or even hippy-style skirts, and yeah, except for specific events they're generally not trying to do drag, they're just wearing what they're wearing. Thanks, Nightfall. --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Thu, 2008-04-10 18:25.
I kind of agree with Sungold, that men (in general) don't necessarily want to see the effort to be "pretty" or whatever, but like, and even sometimes expect, the end result just fine. But, then I think of my husband, who genuinely doesn't seem to care if I make myself up, and doesn't even usually notice if I do.
And I do like the kilt.
[Hi ks. As I replied to Sungold it's not that we don't appreciate *any* effort, or even that there are some really troubled men for whom no amount of effort is enough. But as I say for the vast majority of us it's just that the threshhold is way lower and, past a certain point it stops being fun for us. It's fine if it's fun for those who participate but past that point it's not ok to pretend it's "for men." Thanks! --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Thu, 2008-04-10 22:17.
"If you want to convince a young girl that feminism is a good thing, all of that was a pretty good education!"
I got pretty much the same education - there was a lot of stuff going on when we were kids that really illustrated what feminism was for, at least for those who were paying any sort of attention. I don't think pants were ever actually banned for girls where I was - certainly they were permissible in very cold weather, anyway - but there was a certain amount of Just Not Done associated with them.
Sunflower
[Agreed. For instance the fact that resistance to change on the girls-wear-skirts issue collapsed almost immediately *once it was finally challenged* in our school suggests a lot of that stuff was (and, I maintain) still is only half-heartedly maintained mostly out of sheer, dogged, blind, inertia. That doesn't mean there aren't zealous haters out there, because you bet there are! It *does* mean, though, that most opposition comes more from "fellow travellers" who, I strongly believe, can be peeled away from the zealots just like our old principal was. It's just a question of how best to reach them. Thanks, Sunflower. --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Fri, 2008-04-11 12:58.
On the skirt issue, my mom used to tell us stories about having to wear skirts/dresses to school and church as a kid. She remembers exactly when she was allowed to wear pants to school (she was also in junior high--I think you're probably about the same age figleaf, judging by your post) and how much more comfortable it was in the winter. And she still almost never wears a skirt unless it's a very special occasion and she can't get out of it. The forced wearing as a child has given her and her sisters an aversion.
By contrast, I've never had to deal with that sort of thing and I wear skirts almost daily (except in winter--it really is too cold). I just find them more comfortable.
[Yeah, it's funny how we tend to sort of "fishtail" through generations like that. Thanks, ks. --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Sat, 2008-04-12 05:15.
Strangely enough, I grew up in a very conservative Christian school where girls were required to wear skirts in the late 80s, early 90s. And yes, it was miserable in the winter. I almost never wear skirts now, like many other people who experienced not having the choice not to.
And in regards to men caring as much about women's appearances as the women themselves do, "not above a certain threshold" seems to be about right from my experience.
Other than my efforts to find tee-shirts *in women's sizes,* I don't do much to try to appear feminine. I don't wear makeup, I've given up on shaving my legs in the past year because I really hate doing it, I have very short, not-particularly-feminine hair, I always wear sensible shoes, etc. And, while my peers who *do* bother with all the visual imagery associated with the traditionally feminine certainly get more male attention than I do, I've found that by-and-large, men don't care that I choose not to do all of these things.
They don't seem to think of me as particularly attractive or "dateable," but I've never really been directly reprimanded for my appearance by a male. It's almost exclusively from women that I've gotten direct, verbal censure for my percieved lack of femininity. (Your Mileage May Vary, of course)
I can't say how many times other women have told me "Oh, you'd be so pretty if you would just..." to which I usually reply, "I'm not trying to be pretty!" Which usually gets me a "Why not?" or "But you should."
So in my own life, I've noticed that, yes, men do respond to visual signals of femininity but a lot of times, the ones working the hardest to perpetuate the whole crazy, expensive, time-consuming mess of feminine visual imagery as it stands now are women.
[Yeah, the problem with "you'd be so pretty" is that it can be true only if by "pretty" one means "having done extra work." Which reminds me that maybe 25 years ago my nature-girl/hippy partner completely baffled her circle of back-home relatives and former classmates by having "such incredible skin," "yes, and you look so *young!*" Then one of them decided, almost accusingly, "I know what it is, she's not wearing any makeup!" As if that was cheating. Thanks, Lynn. --fl]
Submitted by 2070 (not verified) on Sun, 2008-04-13 03:27.
I truly do not remember when it was the last time that I have enjoyed so much reading someone's blog. I really mean it. Thanks so much for sharing and for breaking the stereotypes. Tremendous blog.
[Thank you, Jasko! I totally appreciate it. Thanks. --fl]